Parts by Request
Tanning Bed Electrical Parts
Behind the lamps, every tanning bed is an electrical panel: a cord and plug, a contactor or relays that switch the lamp banks, lamp holders at each tube end, terminal blocks, fuses and a lot of wire. These are the parts that fail when a bed is dead, trips the breaker or shows a scorched lamp end. Sun Systems & Service sources tanning bed electrical parts by request for 120 and 220 volt beds, and we tell you plainly when a job needs a licensed electrician. Installed in Michigan, shipped nationwide after a video session.
What fails and how you can tell
- Bed completely dead. No display, no fan, nothing. Check the breaker and the plug, then the bed's own fuse, then the main contactor. Our will not turn on checklist runs through it.
- Timer runs, lamps never come on. The contactor or relay that switches the lamp circuit is not pulling in. You may hear a click with no result, or no click at all.
- Loud chatter or buzz from the contactor. Worn contacts or a weak coil. Replace it before it welds closed.
- Breaker trips. At startup, it is often an undersized circuit or a shorted ballast. After running a while, heat and a failing component. A breaker that trips is telling you something. Do not swap it for a larger one.
- Scorched or melted lamp holders. Brown or black plastic at a lamp end, or a lamp that only lights when wiggled. The holder has a loose contact and is arcing.
- Warm plug or cord. A loose connection in the plug or receptacle. Fire risk. Stop and replace.
- One whole bank of lamps out. Base lit, canopy dark or the reverse. The relay or fuse for that bank.
120 volt or 220 volt
Many residential beds and smaller salon beds run on a dedicated 120 volt circuit, usually 20 amps. Most commercial beds and larger residential beds need a dedicated 220 volt circuit, and the amperage varies by bed. The model plate states the voltage and amps. The plug type on the cord should match a receptacle wired for that rating. We see beds every month on a shared circuit or an undersized breaker that trip, run dim or cook ballasts. Our guide to tanning bed electrical requirements covers what the circuit needs. The circuit is an electrician's job. The parts inside the bed are ours.
How to identify the part
Contactors and relays carry a label with the coil voltage, the contact rating in amps and a part number. Lamp holders differ by lamp end type, bi-pin or RDC, and by mounting style, so send a photo of a good one and the failed one. Cords and plugs are identified by the plate rating and the plug configuration. Photograph the model plate, the failed part and its label, and the wiring around it before you disconnect anything. For national customers a video session is the fastest way to find the fault, since Stan can see the panel live and point to the part.
Installing electrical parts
Lamp holders and starters are safe swaps with the bed unplugged. Contactors, relays, cords and anything on the line side carry real risk. In Michigan we do it on site and test the bed under full load. For national customers we ship the matched part and, on video, walk you through the swap with the power locked out. When the job belongs to a licensed electrician, which is anything in the wall, we say so and give you the written spec to hand them.
More parts by request
- Tanning bed lamps and bulbs
- Ballasts
- Starters
- Acrylics
- Gas springs and canopy shocks
- Timers and controllers
- Fans and cooling
- Electrical parts
Parts by brand
Wolff, ESB, Sunquest, SunFire, ProSun, Sunmaster, Ergoline and KBL, plus every other make we have seen in 35 years.
Request this part
Send the make, model and what the bed is doing. Stan confirms the part and quotes it, usually the same day.
Not sure which part it is
Call and describe the symptom. Stan has heard it before and will tell you what to look at first.
Call (248) 545-5577Frequently asked questions
Why does my tanning bed keep tripping the breaker?
At startup it is usually a circuit that is undersized or shared with other loads, or a shorted ballast. After the bed has run a while it is usually heat: a failing ballast, a bad contactor or a loose connection. Never replace the breaker with a larger one. Have the circuit checked and let us find the part inside the bed.
What is a tanning bed contactor?
A contactor is a heavy duty relay. The timer sends it a low power signal and it closes a set of contacts that carry the full current to the lamp banks. When it wears out, the timer runs but the lamps do not light, or the contacts weld and the bed will not shut off. It is a standard electrical part matched by coil voltage and contact rating.
Can I fix my tanning bed's electrical problem myself?
Some parts, yes. Lamps, starters and lamp holders can be changed safely with the bed unplugged. Contactors, relays, cords and anything carrying line voltage should be done by a technician or with one on video guiding you with the power locked out. Anything in the wall or at the panel is an electrician's job.